Back to the kitchen with me.
Sep. 10th, 2011 12:41 pmFood. I've been cooking again. I have three people to cook for, and the present situation afford me the time I need to adapt to the new conditions.
First, I have someone who keeps kosher, and I have someone who is lactose intolerant. That means some of my default behaviors have to change. I can't do cream sauces. My usual tricks of using butter to brown, flavor and finish dishes, are out.
I also have no nightshade in the repertoire, because Merav is allergic. No potatoes, tomatoes, eggplant, or chiles.
Weds was impromptu. Merav took a fall on Tues. to the visit we had planned became company coming in.
I dashed to the store (the first time I've been on the motorcycle since a couple of days before I moved, call it a month), and got some chicken quarters, a couple of leeks and some cremini, and pine nuts.
Took a couple of onions, and one leek set them to caramelise. Browned the chicken. Put the oinons on the bottom of a deep cast iron pot, onto that I put parsnips and carrots, and then four of the thigh/drumstick quarters. Tossed in some fennel seed and some celery seed; let it simmer for about an hour. Then I chopped about 1 1/2 cups of mushrooms and let it finish.
Made a pot of rice.
The leeks and onions were a little more brown than I would have like (I think I need to get some heat diffusers without the central hole mine have), but they weren't more than a bit scorched. The pot liquor was all the sauce one needed.
Thus. I took the other two quarters, stood them on top of the tops of two leeks, and put some water under them so they could poach/steam.
Set that on the back burner; in a visionware pan, so I could see the progress.
I took some schmaltz from the browning for the previous nights fricasee, and put a couple of onions into it to sweat.
Took the various leftover "meat" rice from the fridge.chopped some more mushrooms, and carrots and parsnips. Put the mushrooms into the onions and cooked them into a sort of "duxelles crudo", in that I didn't mince them small, and didn't let them fall apart.
When the chicken was done, I took it out, shredded the meat off the bones, fished the leeks out of the pot and put the skin and bones back in, with the tops of the neeps and carrots, as well as the uncooked root end of the previous nights leeks, added water just to cover and set it to simmer.
Mixed the meat into the rice, and put it into a 175 oven for about 45 minutes.
Last night was more labor intensive. I'd roasted a kampucha, and a butternut, squash the say before. I pulled the meat from the shells, grated some ginger into it* , and mixed in not enough pine nuts. Be liberal with them.
I also made up some duxelles, mushroom heavy, and onion light.
Then I rolled out the pasta and made ravioli with the squash, and half-moons with the duxelles. All they needed was a bit of pepper, but brown butter would not have been amiss.
*be careful, the ginger is very faint to the nose, and shows up against the squash, taste the mix, or aim for less than you think you need. About 1" of fresh ginger, minced is probably not too much; I used a little too much, it wasn't unpleasant, but the flavor was more ginger forward than I'd have liked.
First, I have someone who keeps kosher, and I have someone who is lactose intolerant. That means some of my default behaviors have to change. I can't do cream sauces. My usual tricks of using butter to brown, flavor and finish dishes, are out.
I also have no nightshade in the repertoire, because Merav is allergic. No potatoes, tomatoes, eggplant, or chiles.
Weds was impromptu. Merav took a fall on Tues. to the visit we had planned became company coming in.
I dashed to the store (the first time I've been on the motorcycle since a couple of days before I moved, call it a month), and got some chicken quarters, a couple of leeks and some cremini, and pine nuts.
Took a couple of onions, and one leek set them to caramelise. Browned the chicken. Put the oinons on the bottom of a deep cast iron pot, onto that I put parsnips and carrots, and then four of the thigh/drumstick quarters. Tossed in some fennel seed and some celery seed; let it simmer for about an hour. Then I chopped about 1 1/2 cups of mushrooms and let it finish.
Made a pot of rice.
The leeks and onions were a little more brown than I would have like (I think I need to get some heat diffusers without the central hole mine have), but they weren't more than a bit scorched. The pot liquor was all the sauce one needed.
Thus. I took the other two quarters, stood them on top of the tops of two leeks, and put some water under them so they could poach/steam.
Set that on the back burner; in a visionware pan, so I could see the progress.
I took some schmaltz from the browning for the previous nights fricasee, and put a couple of onions into it to sweat.
Took the various leftover "meat" rice from the fridge.chopped some more mushrooms, and carrots and parsnips. Put the mushrooms into the onions and cooked them into a sort of "duxelles crudo", in that I didn't mince them small, and didn't let them fall apart.
When the chicken was done, I took it out, shredded the meat off the bones, fished the leeks out of the pot and put the skin and bones back in, with the tops of the neeps and carrots, as well as the uncooked root end of the previous nights leeks, added water just to cover and set it to simmer.
Mixed the meat into the rice, and put it into a 175 oven for about 45 minutes.
Last night was more labor intensive. I'd roasted a kampucha, and a butternut, squash the say before. I pulled the meat from the shells, grated some ginger into it* , and mixed in not enough pine nuts. Be liberal with them.
I also made up some duxelles, mushroom heavy, and onion light.
Then I rolled out the pasta and made ravioli with the squash, and half-moons with the duxelles. All they needed was a bit of pepper, but brown butter would not have been amiss.
*be careful, the ginger is very faint to the nose, and shows up against the squash, taste the mix, or aim for less than you think you need. About 1" of fresh ginger, minced is probably not too much; I used a little too much, it wasn't unpleasant, but the flavor was more ginger forward than I'd have liked.