pecunium: (Default)
[personal profile] pecunium
Kiev is great.

I loved it last time, I still love it now.

I am at less liberty than I was. I don't have my compaionable roommate (which is to say I am not able to just grab someone, wander about and be back when I feel the mood). I am stuck with groups, and find myself sitting at tables wishing to move on, or just head back to the hotel.

Furhter I am now the only one who speaks Russian in the party, which is a different set of stresses.

C'est la guerre

Memory is a funny thing. I know this place. The halls, the roooms, the streets. I recall them. I would be comfortable wandering about alone (though it wouldn't be the safest of things, this area is one where locals are safe, and tourists mostly so. But it is a mecca for scams and minor robbery, because it is a tourist zone, as well as one where those with money to spend come to dispose of it).

The light has been less than perfect, but last night there was thunder, and some rain, and the humidity dropped and the clouds have since abated. The food has been swell. Then again, I am good at finding swell food. I am, because I am the colonel's interpreter, eating in the colonel's mess. Food is on a prix fixe menu. The standard is appetizer (dried meats, or cheese, or salted/smoked fish) a salad, a soup, a main course, bread and something to drink. Yesterday was a roulade of pork, with some chopped meat in the middle, for starters we had smoked salmon, and salt pike. The pike had tough skin, sharp bones (but not more than one per side, and those attached to the spine), a cole slaw, and some chicken soup.

Today was solyaniki which is a clear broth, with pickles; this one filled out vegetable, ham, and cow's cheek, and stuffed cabbage.

Last night I had a locally brewed, unfiltered, pilsner, as well as a small amount of bock from the same brewer, sausages, saurkraut (sautéed with onions, so it was tangy, and sweet), and a differnt sort of soup with kvass (a mildly fermented drink, made from rye bread, water, and raisins) chopped egg, horseradish, scallions and chopped tongue.

The breads are wonderful, the local blue cheese is made with either a fat-rich milk, or cream, so the body is light, and smooth, while the veins are not as sharply flavored as roquefort, or bleu. This may be an illusion, because it's not as salted as either of those.

Coffee is almost findable; one must look for someplace which serves espresso, elstwise it's Nescafé.

I'm doing the same job I've always done, translating for the American leader of the excercise. I also get to play aide de camp cultural advisor and tour guide. All in all, I am having, as I expected, a pretty good time. I'll be glad to be home (and looking forward to being in the new house, playing with the dogs, exploring the neighbourhood; making a renewed acquaintance with LA, and a learning a new part of town, seeing old friends and meeting some I only know through other venues).


website free tracking

Date: 2006-07-14 09:20 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] minnehaha.livejournal.com
I've been the only one with the local language many times, and it's stressful, as you say. I like it better than not being able to speak to the local people, but still.

K.

Date: 2006-07-15 12:38 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] desert-vixen.livejournal.com

I sort of liked Odessa better.

The hotel in Kiev was much better, though.

Hell, I'd love to go back to either one.

DV

Date: 2006-07-15 01:31 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] ginmar.livejournal.com
Oh, God, there's a Georgian restaurant in Kiev where they serve this dish that's cheese folded into croissant-light round bread. It is heaven. I loved Kiev. I am incredibly jealous.

Date: 2006-07-15 06:51 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] surliminal.livejournal.com
My grandfather (ov asholim) was from Odessa/Kiev - I very much want to do a trip there sometime. How would I get on with no Russian (or German)? What is Odessa like? is that area as mafia over run as Moscow is reputed to be these days? (We used to have an exchange link with Moscow - we dropped it after many problems with theft from hotels etc, when a local lawyer got killed.)
(Reply to this)(Parent)

Date: 2006-07-15 09:46 am (UTC)
ext_39302: Painting of Flaming June by Frederick Lord Leighton (England)
From: [identity profile] intelligentrix.livejournal.com
I learned how to make that bread in Georgia--it's wonderful!

Date: 2006-07-15 01:10 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] ginmar.livejournal.com
Oh, do you have a recipe?

Date: 2006-07-15 04:36 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] desert-vixen.livejournal.com

I second that one.

DV

Date: 2006-07-15 05:59 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] pecunium.livejournal.com
Don't be a tease, tell me the name, or at least some idea of how to find it.

TK

Date: 2006-07-15 06:02 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] ginmar.livejournal.com
Crap, it was advertised right in the airport and I seem to remember it was right downtown. It was advertised as a Georgian restaurant. Crap. Ask around, they must know it. They had a fiddle player and everytihng.

Date: 2006-07-15 06:13 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] pecunium.livejournal.com
"You're from Los Angeles? Do you know...?"

I know Kiev is smaller than that, but it's still got more than a million people.

Just tell me what part of town you were in, I'll do the rest. Col. Jones might like a Georgian restaurant.

TK

Date: 2006-07-15 06:15 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] ginmar.livejournal.com
I don't even remember. Well, they did serve a lot of wine with the meal, too. I can't remember if we took a cab or not.

Date: 2006-07-15 04:10 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] athenais.livejournal.com
Am v. v. jealous as I would like to go to Kiev but probably never will. I would love to hear a mass with Georgian choral music.

Date: 2006-07-15 09:48 am (UTC)
ext_39302: Painting of Flaming June by Frederick Lord Leighton (England)
From: [identity profile] intelligentrix.livejournal.com
I remember getting wonderful piroshky at a little stand in the train station... and some fabulous playing cards. I'd love to go back some day.

The picture in the icon is what I looked like when I was there.

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